Harvest: It’s The Ranch’s fine dining side

Review and photos by MAGGI HENRIKSON

The Harvest vibe is one part earthy and downhome, and one part refinement and elegance. It’s a nice mix as you sit in the big lodge space and look out at all the green surrounding this pristine canyon location. The chef’s creations reflect that mix too, as locally sourced ingredients blend with Asian, European, and Americana influences.

I love visiting The Ranch at Laguna Beach and feeling like I’m on vacation, even if it’s just for lunch. And, of course, lunch at their Harvest restaurant is a perfect topper to a round of golf. Last weekend, I enjoyed a full two days (and nights) there and was delighted to partake of several meals worth noting.

My second favorite fish in the whole world is branzino, which is a European sea bass. (My first favorite is fresh-caught Atlantic striped bass, but that’s for home cooking, and a whole other story). I’ve seen branzino as a special at only a few restaurants, so I was very happy to find it right there on the menu at Harvest.

The thing about branzino is that the whole fish is mild and sweet, right down to the skin. It’s roasted or grilled and served whole, with head and tail, as is more customary in Europe than in California. Chef Kyle St. John has interpreted the Whole Branzino dish at Harvest served with spiced lentils, chorizo, blistered tomatoes, and salsa verde. So good, I had it two nights in a row!

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Whole Cyprus Branzino

Accompanying the branzino, we ordered another amazing seafood special – Hamachi. It was light and citrusy, and just melted on the tongue.

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Hamachi Special

The menu changes seasonally at Harvest, and right now I’d beat the doors down to have the Wild Mushroom Pappardelle while it’s featured. They make the pappardelle pasta in-house and gently toss it with white wine, garlic, truffle tremor cheese, and the most delicate and fresh assortment of wild mushrooms. You just have to say “Aww!” when you see the teeny littlest ones, and OMG when you take a taste of that wild, earthy and sinfully rich flavor.

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Wild Mushroom Pappardelle

On the lunch menu, my skinny selection – due to low carb count – goes to Harvest’s fabulous Grilled Salmon Salad. The perfectly medium-rare chargrilled salmon is served with mixed baby greens, artichokes, Greek olives, pickled onions, and feta cheese drizzled with red wine vinaigrette.

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Grilled Salmon Salad

Go ahead and work up an appetite on the lovely Ranch golf course, then feast on fine dining with a view at Harvest. You will be happily satisfied with a day well spent.